Laser finishing of apparel

ABSTRACT

Software and lasers are used in finishing apparel to produce a desired wear pattern or other design. A technique includes determining a fabric&#39;s response to a laser, capturing an initial image of a wear pattern on a garment, and processing the initial image to obtain a working image in grayscale. The working image is further processed to obtain a difference image by comparing each pixel relative to a dark reference. The difference image is converted to a laser values image by using the previously determined fabric response to the laser.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This patent application is a continuation of U.S. patent applicationSer. No. 15/682,507, filed Aug. 21, 2017, issued as U.S. Pat. No.10,051,905 on Aug. 21, 2018, which claims the benefit of U.S. patentapplications 62/433,739, filed Dec. 13, 2016, and 62/377,447, filed Aug.19, 2016. These applications are incorporated by reference along withall other references cited in this application.

A portion of the disclosure of this patent document contains materialwhich is subject to copyright protection. The copyright owner has noobjection to the facsimile reproduction by anyone of the patent documentor the patent disclosure, as it appears in the U.S. Patent and TrademarkOffice patent file or records, but otherwise reserves all copyrightrights whatsoever.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to apparel finishing and, morespecifically, the use of a laser in the finishing of garments,especially denim including jeans, shirts, shorts, jackets, vests, andskirts, to obtain a faded, distressed, washed, or worn finish orappearance.

In 1853, during the California Gold Rush, Levi Strauss, a 24-year-oldGerman immigrant, left New York for San Francisco with a small supply ofdry goods with the intention of opening a branch of his brother's NewYork dry goods business. Shortly after arriving in San Francisco, Mr.Strauss realized that the miners and prospectors (called the “fortyniners”) needed pants strong enough to last through the hard workconditions they endured. So, Mr. Strauss developed the now familiarjeans which he sold to the miners. The company he founded, Levi Strauss& Co., still sells jeans and is the most widely known jeans brand in theworld. Levi's is a trademark of Levi Strauss & Co. or LS&Co.

Though jeans at the time of the Gold Rush were used as work clothes,jeans have evolved to be fashionably worn everyday by men and women,showing up on billboards, television commercials, and fashion runways.Fashion is one of the largest consumer industries in the U.S. and aroundthe world. Jeans and related apparel are a significant segment of theindustry.

As fashion, people are concerned with the appearance of their jeans.Many people desire a faded or worn blue jeans look. In the past, jeansbecame faded or distressed through normal wash and wear. The apparelindustry recognized people's desire for the worn blue jeans look andbegan producing jeans and apparel with a variety of wear patterns. Thewear patterns have become part of the jeans style and fashion. Someexamples of wear patterns include combs or honeycombs, whiskers, stacks,and train tracks.

Despite the widespread success jeans have enjoyed, the process toproduce modern jeans with wear patterns takes processing time, hasrelatively high processing cost, and is resource intensive. A typicalprocess to produce jeans uses significant amounts of water, chemicals(e.g., bleaching or oxidizing agents), ozone, enzymes, and pumice stone.For example, it may take about 20 to 60 liters of water to finish eachpair of jeans.

Therefore, there is a need for an improved process for finishing jeansthat reduces environmental impact, processing time, and processingcosts, while maintaining the look and style of traditional finishingtechniques.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Software and lasers are used in finishing apparel to produce a desiredwear pattern or other design. A technique includes determining afabric's response to a laser, capturing an initial image of a wearpattern on a garment, and processing the initial image to obtain aworking image in grayscale. The working image is further processed toobtain a difference image by comparing each pixel relative to a darkreference. The difference image is converted to a laser values image byusing the previously determined fabric response to the laser.

Wear patterns and other designs on garments (including jeans and otherdenim garments) are reproduced by capturing digital images (e.g., highresolution digital photographs, potentially in a raw format) of existinggarments exhibiting desirable wear patterns or other designs, processingthe digital images using software, and then using the processed imagesas the patterns to control a laser to reproduce the desired pattern ordesign on a new garment. This process permits the reproduction ofdesirable, complex, and authentic wear patterns taken from worn garmentssuch as jeans on new articles of clothing before sale.

In an implementation, a method includes forming a first pattern on asurface of a target fabric material. The first pattern includes a numberof color shades where the color shades are lighter shades relative to anoriginal color of the target fabric material. The first pattern isformed by exposing the target fabric material to a laser beam at avariety of laser levels.

The method includes: from the first pattern created by a laser,obtaining a fabric response characteristic for the target fabricmaterial in response to the laser; providing a first garment having apreexisting finishing pattern; and from the first garment having apreexisting finishing pattern, obtaining a first image representative ofthe preexisting finishing pattern.

The method includes: from the first image, obtaining a second imagerepresentative of the preexisting finishing pattern, where the secondimage includes a reverse image, compared to the first image; using thesecond image and the fabric response characteristic, creating a laservalues input file; and forming on a second pattern on a surface of asecond garment, where the second garment is made of the target fabricmaterial. The second pattern is formed by exposing the second garment toa laser beam controlled by the laser values input file.

In an implementation, a system includes an assembled garment made of afabric material, where the assembled garment will be exposed to a laserbeam that will create a finishing pattern on a surface of the assembledgarment.

There is a laser that emits the laser beam, where the laser beam willform a finishing pattern on the surface of the fabric material of theassembled garment based on the laser input file. The laser input file isobtained by providing a fabric response characteristic function for thefabric material in response to the laser, providing a preexistingfinishing pattern captured from a garment having a finishing pattern,and converting the preexisting finishing pattern based on the fabricresponse characteristic function into the laser input file. The laserinput file can be a reverse image.

In an implementation, a method includes assembling a jeans made fromfabric panels of a woven first denim material including a warp havingindigo ring-dyed cotton yarn, where the fabric panels are sewn togetherusing thread. A laser input file is created that is representative of afinishing pattern from an existing jeans made from a second denimmaterial. The first denim material has a different fabric characteristicfrom the second denim material.

The creating the laser input file can include: capturing a target imageof the finishing pattern from the existing jeans of the second denimmaterial, and determining values for the laser input file that willresult in a finishing pattern on the first denim material to obtain anappearance similar to the target image of the finishing pattern from theexisting jeans of the second denim material.

A laser is used to create a finishing pattern on an outer surface of thejeans based on a laser input file. Based on the laser input file, thelaser removes selected amounts of material from the surface of the firstmaterial at different pixel locations of the jeans. For lighter pixellocations of the finishing pattern, a greater amount of the indigoring-dyed cotton warp yarn is removed, while for darker pixel locationsof the finishing pattern, a lesser amount of the indigo ring-dyed cottonwarp yarn is removed. The finishing pattern created can extend acrossportions of the jeans where two or more fabric panels are joinedtogether by the threads by exposing these portions to the laser.

Other objects, features, and advantages of the present invention willbecome apparent upon consideration of the following detailed descriptionand the accompanying drawings, in which like reference designationsrepresent like features throughout the figures.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 shows a process flow for manufacturing apparel.

FIG. 2 shows a flow for a finishing technique that includes the use of alaser.

FIG. 3 shows a flow for finishing in two finishing steps and using basetemplates.

FIG. 4 shows multiple base templates and multiple resulting finishedproducts from each of these templates.

FIG. 5 shows a computer system which is part of a laser finishing systemfor apparel.

FIG. 6 shows a system block diagram of the computer system.

FIG. 7 shows a flow for creating a wear pattern input file for the laserfinishing system.

FIGS. 8A and 8B show an image of an existing garment with wear patternand a processed wear pattern image that can be an input file for alaser.

FIG. 9 shows a grayscale map for input to a laser.

FIG. 10 shows a fabric map that results from burning the grayscale mapinput onto a fabric.

FIG. 11 shows a laser-fabric response graph including curves of arelationship between needed value shift and grayscale value required.

FIG. 12 shows an image of a pair of jeans with a wear pattern that is tobe captured and cropping of this image.

FIG. 13 shows an example of the cropped image processed by the summingof red, green, and blue arrays to extract only the target garment.

FIG. 14 shows an extracted image of the target garment.

FIG. 15 shows the extracted image converted to a grayscale workingimage, and using the grayscale image to obtain one or more featureselection images.

FIG. 16 shows creating a difference image from the grayscale workingimage.

FIG. 17 shows a histogram where outliers are shifted into other bins ofthe histogram.

FIG. 18 shows using the difference image to create a laser values imagethat will be an input file to control operation of the laser duringapparel finishing.

FIGS. 19-20 show multiple image layers that can be used by a laser in amultiple-pass finishing technique.

FIG. 21 shows a weave pattern for a denim fabric.

FIGS. 22-25 show how the laser alters the color of ring-dyed yarn.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

FIG. 1 shows a process flow 101 for manufacturing apparel such as jeans.The fabric or material for various apparel including jeans is made fromnatural or synthetic fibers 106, or a combination of these. A fabricmill takes fibers and processes 109 these fibers to produce a finishedfabric 112. Some examples of natural fibers include cotton, flax, hemp,sisal, jute, kenaf, and coconut; fibers from animal sources includesilk, wool, cashmere, and mohair. Some examples of synthetic fibersinclude polyester, nylon, spandex or elastane, and other polymers. Someexamples of semisynthetic fibers include rayon, viscose, modal, andlyocell, which are made from a regenerated cellulose fiber. A fabric canbe a natural fiber alone (e.g., cotton), a synthetic fiber alone (e.g.,polyester alone), a blend of natural and synthetic fibers (e.g., cottonand polyester blend, or cotton and spandax), or a blend of natural andsemisynthetic fibers, or any combination of these or other fibers.

For jeans, the fabric is typically a denim, which is a sturdy cottonwarp-faced textile in which a weft passes under two or more warpthreads. This twill weaving produces a diagonal ribbing. The yarn orfabric is dyed using an indigo or blue dye, which is characteristic ofblue jeans.

Although this patent describes the apparel processing and finishing withrespect to jeans, the invention is not limited jeans or denim products,such as shirts, shorts, jackets, vests, and skirts. The techniques andapproaches described are applicable to other apparel and products,including nondenim products and products made from knit materials. Someexamples include T-shirts, sweaters, coats, sweatshirts (e.g., hoodies),casual wear, athletic wear, outerwear, dresses, sleepwear, loungewear,underwear, socks, bags, backpacks, uniforms, umbrellas, swimwear, bedsheets, scarves, and many others.

A manufacturer creates a design 115 (design I) of its product. Thedesign can be for a particular type of clothing or garment (e.g., men'sor women's jean, or jacket), sizing of the garment (e.g., small, medium,or large, or waist size and inseam length), or other design feature. Thedesign can be specified by a pattern or cut used to form pieces of thepattern. A fabric is selected and patterned and cut 118 based on thedesign. The pattern pieces are assembled together 121 into the garment,typically by sewing using thread (e.g., polyester or cotton thread), butcan be joined together using other techniques (e.g., rivets, buttons,zipper, hoop and loop, adhesives, or other techniques and structures tojoin fabrics and materials together).

Some garments can be complete after assembly and ready for sale.However, other garments may have additional finishing 124. The finishingmay include tinting, washing, softening, and fixing. For distresseddenim products, the finishing can include producing a wear patternaccording to a design 127 (design II). Design 127 is for postassemblyaspects of a garment while design 115 is for preassembly aspects of agarment. After finishing, a finished product 130 is complete and readyfor sale. The finished product is inventoried and distributed 133,delivered to stores 136, and sold to consumers or customers 139. Theconsumer can buy and wear worn blue jeans without having to wear out thejeans themselves, which usually takes significant time and effort.

To produce distressed denim products, finishing can include dryabrasion, wet processing, oxidation, or other techniques, orcombinations of these, to accelerate wear of the material in order toproduce a desired wear pattern. Dry abrasion can include sandblasting orusing sandpaper. For example, some portions or localized areas of thefabric are sanded to abrade the fabric surface. Wet processing caninclude washing in water, washing with oxidizers (e.g., bleach,peroxide, ozone, or potassium permanganate), spraying with oxidizers,washing with abrasives (e.g., pumice, stone, or grit).

These traditional finishing approaches take time, incur expense, andimpact the environment by utilizing resources and producing waste. It isdesirable to reduce water and chemical usage, which can includeeliminating the use agents such as potassium permanganate and pumice. Analternative to these traditional finishing approaches is laserfinishing.

FIG. 2 shows a finishing technique that includes the use of a laser 207.A laser is a device that emits light through a process of opticalamplification based on the stimulated emission of electromagneticradiation. Lasers are used for bar code scanning, medical proceduressuch as corrective eye surgery, and industrial applications such aswelding. A particular type of laser for finishing apparel is a carbondioxide laser, which emits a beam of infrared radiation.

The laser is controlled by an input file 210 and control software 213 toemit a laser beam onto fabric at a particular position or location at aspecific power level for a specific amount of time. Further, the powerof the laser beam can be varied according to a waveform such as a pulsewave with a particular frequency, period, pulse width, or othercharacteristic. Some aspects of the laser that can be controlled includethe duty cycle, frequency, marking or burning speed, and otherparameters.

The duty cycle is a percentage of laser emission time. Some examples ofduty cycle percentages include 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 80, and 100 percent.The frequency is the laser pulse frequency. A low frequency might be,for example, 5 kilohertz, while a high frequency might be, for example,25 kilohertz. Generally, lower frequencies will have higher surfacepenetration than high frequencies, which has less surface penetration.

The laser acts like a printer and “prints,” “marks,” or “burns” a wearpattern (specified by input file 210) onto the garment. The fabric thatis exposed to the laser beam (e.g., infrared beam) changes color,lightening the fabric at a specified position by a certain amount basedon the laser power, time of exposure, and waveform used. The lasercontinues from position to position until the wear pattern is completelyprinted on the garment.

In a specific implementation, the laser has a resolution of about 34dots per inch (dpi), which on the garment is about 0.7 millimeters perpixel. The technique described in this patent is not dependent on thelaser's resolution, and will work with lasers have more or lessresolution than 34 dots per inch. For example, the laser can have aresolution of 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50, 60, 72, 80, 96, 100, 120, 150,200, 300, or 600 dots per inch, or more or less than any of these orother values. Typically, the greater the resolution, the finer thefeatures that can be printed on the garment in a single pass. By usingmultiple passes (e.g., 2, 3, 4, 5, or more passes) with the laser, theeffective resolution can be increased. In an implementation, multiplelaser passes are used.

Jeans are dyed using an indigo dye, which results in a blue coloredfabric. The blue color is caused by chromophores trapped in the fabricwhich reflect light as a blue color. The laser beam removes thesechromophores. Depending on the amount of chromophores removed, the shadeof blue of the fabric will vary, from deep blue to almost white orwhite.

U.S. patent application 62/433,739, which is incorporated by reference,describes a denim material with enhanced response characteristics tolaser finishing. Using a denim material made from indigo ring-dyed yarn,variations in highs and lows in indigo color shading is achieved byusing a laser.

FIG. 21 shows a weave pattern of a denim fabric 2126. A loom does theweaving. In weaving, warp is the lengthwise or longitudinal yarn orthread in a roll, while weft or woof is the transverse thread. The weftyarn is drawn through the warp yarns to create the fabric. In FIG. 21,the warps extend in a first direction 2135 (e.g., north an south) whilethe wefts extend in a direction 2137 (e.g., east and west). The weftsare shown as a continuous yarn that zigzags across the wefts (e.g.,carried across by a shuttle or a rapier of the loom). Alternatively, thewefts could be separate yarns. In some specific implementations, thewarp yarn has a different weight or thickness than the weft yarns. Forexample, warp yarns can be coarser than the weft yarns.

For denim, dyed yarn is used for the warp, and undyed or white yarn istypically used for the weft yarn. In some denim fabrics, the weft yarncan be dyed and have a color other than white, such as red. In the denimweave, the weft passes under two or more warp threads. FIG. 21 shows aweave with the weft passing under two warp threads. Specifically, thefabric weave is known as a 2×1 right-hand twill. For a right-hand twill,a direction of the diagonal is from a lower left to an upper right. Fora left-hand twill, a direction of the diagonal is from an lower right toan upper left. But in other denim weaves, the weft can pass under adifferent number of warp threads, such as 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, or more. Inother implementation, the denim is a 3×1 right-hand twill, which meansthe weft passes under three warp threads.

Because of the weave, one side of the fabric exposes more of the warpyarns (e.g., warp-faced side), while the other side exposes more of theweft yarns (e.g., weft-faced side). When the warp yarns are blue andweft yarns are white, a result of the weave is the warp-faced side willappear mostly blue while the reverse side, weft-faced side, will appearmostly white.

In denim, the warp is typically 100 percent cotton. But some warp yarnscan be a blend with, for example, elastane to allow for warp stretch.And some yarns for other fabrics may contain other fibers, such aspolyester or elastane as examples.

In an indigo ring-dyed yarn, the indigo does not fully penetrate to acore of the yarn. Rather, the indigo dye is applied at a surface of thecotton yarn and diffuses toward the interior of the yarn. So when theyarn is viewed cross-sectionally, the indigo dyed material will appearas a ring on around an outer edge of the yarn. The shading of the indigodye will generally lighten in a gradient as a distance increases fromthe surface of the yarn to the center (or core) of the yarn.

A cross section of a ring-dyed yarn appears somewhat analogous to atotal solar eclipse, one which occurred Aug. 21, 2017 (i.e., the filingdate of this patent) in North America. The core of yarn is like theumbra (Latin for “shadow”) and is the innermost and darkest part of ashadow, where the light source is completely blocked by the occludingbody. And the solar corona that appears during totality is analogous tothe ring-dyed outer surface of the yarn.

During laser finishing, the laser removes a selected amount of thesurface of the indigo dyed yarn (e.g., blue color) to reveal a lightercolor (e.g., white color) of the inner core of the ring-dyed yarn. Themore of the indigo dyed material that is removed, the lighter the color(e.g., lighter shade of blue). The more of the indigo dyed material thatremains, the darker the color (e.g., deeper shade of blue). The lasercan be controlled precisely to remove a desired amount of material toachieve a desired shade of blue in a desired place or position on thematerial.

With laser finishing, a finish can be applied (e.g., printed or burnedvia the laser) onto apparel (e.g., jeans and denim garments) that willappear similar to or indistinguishable from a finish obtained usingtraditional processing techniques (e.g., dry abrasion, wet processing,and oxidation). Laser finishing of apparel is less costly and is fasterthan traditional finishing techniques and also has reduced environmentalimpact (e.g., eliminating the use of harsh chemical agents and reducingwaste).

FIGS. 22-25 show how the laser alters the color of ring-dyed yarn. FIG.22 shows a laser beam 2207 striking a ring-dyed yarn 2213 havingindigo-dyed fibers 2218 and white core fibers 2222. The laser removesthe dyed fibers, which can be by vaporizing or otherwise destroying thecotton fiber via heat or high temperature that the laser beam causes.

FIG. 23 shows the laser using a first power level setting or firstexposure time setting, or a combination of these, to remove some of thedyed fibers, but not revealing any of the white core fibers. The undyedfibers remain covered. There is no color change.

FIG. 24 shows the laser using a second power level setting or secondexposure time setting, or a combination of these, to remove more of thedyed fibers than in FIG. 23. The second power level is greater than thefirst power level, or the second exposure time setting is greater thanthe first exposure time setting, or a combination of these. The resultis some of the undyed fibers are revealed. There is a color change,subtle highlighting.

FIG. 25 shows the laser using a third power level setting or thirdexposure time setting, or a combination of these, to remove even more ofthe dyed fibers than in FIG. 24. The third power level is greater thanthe second power level, or the third exposure time setting is greaterthan the second exposure time setting, or a combination of these. Theresult is more of the undyed fibers are revealed. There is a colorchange, brighter highlighting.

As shown in FIG. 2, before laser 207, the fabric can be prepared 216 forthe laser, which may be referred to as a base preparation, and caninclude a prelaser wash. This step helps improves the results of thelaser. After the laser, there can be a postlaser wash 219. This wash canclean or remove any residue caused by the laser, such as removing anycharring (which would appear as brown or slightly burning). There can beadditional finish 221, which may be including tinting, softening, orfixing, to complete finishing.

FIG. 3 shows a technique where finishing is divided into two finishingsteps, finishing I and finishing II. Finishing I 308 is an initialfinishing to create base templates 311. With finishing II 314, each basetemplate can be used to manufacture multiple final finishes 317.

FIG. 4 shows multiple base templates, base A, base B, and base C.Finishing II can include the laser process show in FIG. 2 and describedabove. Base A is lasered with different designs to obtain various finalproduct based on base A (e.g., FP(A)1 to FP(A)i, where i is an integer).Base B is lasered with different designs to obtain various final productbased on base B (e.g., FP(B)1 to FP(B)j, where j is an integer). Base Cis lasered with different designs to obtain various final product basedon base C (e.g., FP(C)1 to FP(C)k, where k is an integer). Each base canbe used to obtain a number of different final designs. For example, theintegers i, j, and k can have different values.

A system of laser finishing can include a computer to control or monitoroperation, or both. FIG. 5 shows an example of a computer that iscomponent of a laser finishing system. The computer may be a separateunit that is connected to a laser system, or may be embedded inelectronics of the laser system. In an embodiment, the inventionincludes software that executes on a computer workstation system, suchas shown in FIG. 5.

FIG. 5 shows a computer system 501 that includes a monitor 503, screen505, enclosure 507, keyboard 509, and mouse 511. Mouse 511 may have oneor more buttons such as mouse buttons 513. Enclosure 507 (may also bereferred to as a system unit, cabinet, or case) houses familiar computercomponents, some of which are not shown, such as a processor, memory,mass storage devices 517, and the like.

Mass storage devices 517 may include mass disk drives, floppy disks,magnetic disks, optical disks, magneto-optical disks, fixed disks, harddisks, CD-ROMs, recordable CDs, DVDs, recordable DVDs (e.g., DVD-R,DVD+R, DVD-RW, DVD+RW, HD-DVD, or Blu-ray Disc), flash and othernonvolatile solid-state storage (e.g., USB flash drive or solid statedrive (SSD)), battery-backed-up volatile memory, tape storage, reader,and other similar media, and combinations of these.

A computer-implemented or computer-executable version or computerprogram product of the invention may be embodied using, stored on, orassociated with computer-readable medium. A computer-readable medium mayinclude any medium that participates in providing instructions to one ormore processors for execution. Such a medium may take many formsincluding, but not limited to, nonvolatile, volatile, and transmissionmedia. Nonvolatile media includes, for example, flash memory, or opticalor magnetic disks. Volatile media includes static or dynamic memory,such as cache memory or RAM. Transmission media includes coaxial cables,copper wire, fiber optic lines, and wires arranged in a bus.Transmission media can also take the form of electromagnetic, radiofrequency, acoustic, or light waves, such as those generated duringradio wave and infrared data communications.

For example, a binary, machine-executable version, of the software ofthe present invention may be stored or reside in RAM or cache memory, oron mass storage device 517. The source code of the software of thepresent invention may also be stored or reside on mass storage device517 (e.g., hard disk, magnetic disk, tape, or CD-ROM). As a furtherexample, code of the invention may be transmitted via wires, radiowaves, or through a network such as the Internet.

FIG. 6 shows a system block diagram of computer system 501 used toexecute software of the present invention. As in FIG. 5, computer system501 includes monitor 503, keyboard 509, and mass storage devices 517.Computer system 501 further includes subsystems such as centralprocessor 602, system memory 604, input/output (I/O) controller 606,display adapter 608, serial or universal serial bus (USB) port 612,network interface 618, and speaker 620. The invention may also be usedwith computer systems with additional or fewer subsystems. For example,a computer system could include more than one processor 602 (i.e., amultiprocessor system) or the system may include a cache memory.

The processor may be a dual core or multicore processor, where there aremultiple processor cores on a single integrated circuit. The system mayalso be part of a distributed computing environment. In a distributedcomputing environment, individual computing systems are connected to anetwork and are available to lend computing resources to another systemin the network as needed. The network may be an internal Ethernetnetwork, Internet, or other network.

Arrows such as 622 represent the system bus architecture of computersystem 501. However, these arrows are illustrative of anyinterconnection scheme serving to link the subsystems. For example,speaker 620 could be connected to the other subsystems through a port orhave an internal connection to central processor 602. Computer system501 shown in FIG. 5 is but an example of a computer system suitable foruse with the present invention. Other configurations of subsystemssuitable for use with the present invention will be readily apparent toone of ordinary skill in the art.

Computer software products may be written in any of various suitableprogramming languages, such as C, C++, C#, Pascal, Fortran, Perl,Matlab, SAS, SPSS, JavaScript, AJAX, Java, Python, Erlang, and Ruby onRails. The computer software product may be an independent applicationwith data input and data display modules. Alternatively, the computersoftware products may be classes that may be instantiated as distributedobjects. The computer software products may also be component softwaresuch as Java Beans (from Oracle Corporation) or Enterprise Java Beans(EJB from Oracle Corporation).

An operating system for the system may be one of the Microsoft Windows®family of operating systems (e.g., Windows 95, 98, Me, Windows NT,Windows 2000, Windows XP, Windows XP ×64 Edition, Windows Vista, Windows7, Windows 8, Windows 10, Windows CE, Windows Mobile, Windows RT),Symbian OS, Tizen, Linux, HP-UX, UNIX, Sun OS, Solaris, Mac OS X, AppleiOS, Android, Alpha OS, AIX, IRIX32, or IRIX64. Other operating systemsmay be used. Microsoft Windows is a trademark of Microsoft Corporation.Other operating systems may be used. A computer in a distributedcomputing environment may use a different operating system from othercomputers.

Any trademarks or service marks used in this patent are property oftheir respective owner. Any company, product, or service names in thispatent are for identification purposes only. Use of these names, logos,and brands does not imply endorsement.

Furthermore, the computer may be connected to a network and mayinterface to other computers using this network. For example, eachcomputer in the network may perform part of the task of the many seriesof steps of the invention in parallel. Furthermore, the network may bean intranet, internet, or the Internet, among others. The network may bea wired network (e.g., using copper), telephone network, packet network,an optical network (e.g., using optical fiber), or a wireless network,or any combination of these. For example, data and other information maybe passed between the computer and components (or steps) of a system ofthe invention using a wireless network using a protocol such as Wi-Fi(IEEE standards 802.11, 802.11a, 802.11b, 802.11e, 802.11g, 802.11i,802.11n, 802.11ac, and 802.11ad, just to name a few examples), nearfield communication (NFC), radio-frequency identification (RFID), mobileor cellular wireless (e.g., 2G, 3G, 4G, 3GPP LTE, WiMAX, LTE, LTEAdvanced, Flash-OFDM, HIPERMAN, iBurst, EDGE Evolution, UMTS, UMTS-TDD,1×RDD, and EV-DO). For example, signals from a computer may betransferred, at least in part, wirelessly to components or othercomputers.

FIG. 7 shows a flow 702 for creating a wear pattern input file for thelaser. The input file contains a wear pattern that the laser will use toproduce the wear pattern on the garment. It should be understood thatthe invention is not limited to the specific flows and steps presented.A flow of the invention may have additional steps (not necessarilydescribed in this patent), different steps which replace some of thesteps presented, fewer steps or a subset of the steps presented, orsteps in a different order than presented, or any combination of these.Further, the steps in other implementations of the invention may not beexactly the same as the steps presented and may be modified or alteredas appropriate for a particular application or based on the data orsituation.

Flow 702 includes the following: a map fabric response 721; imagecropping, cleaning, and extension 725; creation of garment feature map729; dark reference difference image 733; fabric mapping to pixel 737;and layer separation 741.

A jeans manufacturer like Levi Strauss & Co. has produced many jeanswith a variety of wear patterns. The manufacturer has many existing wearpattern designs, which can include vintage wear patterns. Some wearpatterns are referred to as authentic wear patterns which are the resultof long-term wear. For example, a cowboy or cowgirl may wear a pair of jeans while ranching tending to cattle, riding houses, and participatingin rodeos, and so forth. A miner may wear a pair of jeans whileprospecting for gold, mining for coal, excavating a cavern, riding amine train, and so forth. The result of the worker working in the jeansfor a period of time (e.g., five or more years) without washing themwill be an authentic wear pattern.

The apparel manufacturer wants to reproduce these existing, vintage, orauthentic wear pattern designs (or portions or features of thesedesigns) on garments. A laser system can be used to reproduce the wearpattern on new garments in an accelerated fashion, so that it will nottake years to produce a garment.

An approach is to scan or take a photo of an existing garment with awear pattern. Then with this scan, a laser prints (or burning) the wearpattern on another garment. However, the result of this approach isgenerally a very poor reproduction of the original wear pattern. Theresulting wear pattern typically does not appear realistic, generallyappearing flat—where the highs and lows in the coloration appearcompressed.

There are reasons why this approach does not work. A reason is thematerial of the original garment and new garment are different. Thelaser has not been specifically configured for the characteristics ofthe material being burned. The scanning process or photo may not be aproper input file to control the laser for burning the patternaccurately.

Another approach for re-creating wear patterns is to enhance scans(e.g., via hand editing or hand drawing) of the existing pattern using aphoto editing tool such as Adobe Photoshop. The editing process may usea computer, keyboard, mouse, or pen tablet input device (e.g., Wacomtablet), or any combination of these. This process is generally timeconsuming because significant manual editing is involved.

The approach of FIG. 7 takes, referring to FIGS. 8A and 8B, an image 806of a target or existing garment with wear pattern, extracts garmentfeatures and the known fabric response to laser treatment, to generate awear pattern image 816 that is used as an input file for the laser.Using this approach, the laser can re-create a wear pattern faster andmore accurately than any previous approaches. A specific implementationof the technique is implemented in software written using Python sourcecode.

In step 721, the technique maps a fabric's response to a laser:

Step 721.1. FIG. 9 shows a grayscale map 908. This map is input (via aninput file) to the laser so the laser can burn this grayscale map onto afabric for which it is desired to obtain the fabric's responsecharacteristics to the laser. The grayscale map has rectangular blocks,each block for different 8-bit grayscale value from 0 to 255. The maphas a series of blocks, with an increment value of 10.

In other implementations, other increment values may be used such as 1,2, 3, 5, 8, 15, 20, or others. Any increment value can be uses as longas there are sufficient data points to accurately plot the fabricresponse. The grayscale value can be represented by a binary valuehaving any number of bits, such as more or less than 8 bits, 4 bits, 6bits, 12 bits, 16 bits, 18 bits, 24 bits, 32 bits, or any value above orbelow these values. The more bits the greater the number of gray levels,and the fewer bits, the fewer the number of gray levels.

Also, the dimensions of each box can vary too. A technique uses anaverage of the gray value over the entire box. The more constant thebase wash is, the narrower the distribution will be. Generally, thedimensions of the box should be sufficient in size (small or large) suchthat the technique can obtain an accurate average on very uneven basewashes (e.g., stone washes).

A known input of grayscale constants (e.g., a grayscale in fixedincrements of 10 from 0 (darkest) to 255 (lightest)) is burned by alaser onto a selected fabric (e.g., denim), creating an incrementalrange of discrete color shades or values. This burn pattern on thefabric can be referred to as a fabric map. FIG. 10 shows a fabric map1009 that results from burning input grayscale map 908. The fabric mapcan include an incremental range of color shades or values resultingfrom the incremental laser treatment on the fabric.

Step 721.2. A color digital image or scan is taken of the fabric map andis converted to grayscale and the differences between each incrementallevel of intensity and a dark reference value 1021 is calculated. In animplementation, the dark reference value can be based in a region ofdarkest intensity on the fabric that existed before laser treatment. Thedark reference value can be, for example, an average, mean, median, orother function of the pixels in the region. This region can be selectedby using a selection polygon to indicate boundaries of the darkreference region. The selection polygon can be a square, rectangle,ellipse, circle, triangle, pentagon, hexagon, octagon, or any otherclosed polygon shape. The dark reference region can be two or moreseparate polygons, each of which can be the same or different shape. Inother implementations, dark reference value may be a single pixel orpoint instead of a region.

In an implementation, a color image is represented by binary values from0-255 in red (R), green (G), and blue (B) layers for each pixel. Thegrayscale equivalent can be obtained by summing the red, green, and bluevalues at each pixel. The resulting grayscale image will have values ina range from 0-765 (i.e., 3*255). These values indicate a grayscalevalue within that range and also can be scaled back into the 0-255range.

Further, in an implementation, for converting to grayscale, the red,green, and blue layers can be weighted by the user as desired. This maybe used to enhance the results, such as to highlight certain features ofthe pattern. Weighting can be adjusted by selecting a percentage foreach layer, where the sum of the percentages is 100. A standardweighting is to weight each color layer equally, such as 0.333 red,0.333 green, and 0.333 blue. But the user can change the weighting toemphasize certain colors while deemphasizing other colors. For example,the user may want to emphasize the reds and greens in the image, whiledeemphasizing the blues. An example of a weighting where red and greenare weighted greater than other colors while blue is weighted least is:0.45 red, 0.38 green, and 0.17 blue.

Step 721.3. The burn on the fabric for a particular grayscale inputvalue is not a constant value. Rather, different regions of pixeldistributions will yield different fabric maps (i.e., detailed patterndesigns) and introduce flexibility for the user later in the steps.

For each box (e.g., box 1026) of the burned fabric, there is adistribution of grayscale pixels, which can be represented using a valuehistogram 1033. The histogram represents a distribution of grayscalepixels for a rectangular box of the fabric map. The x-axis of thehistogram indicates a difference value between a pixel and an averagevalue of all grayscale pixels within the dark reference. Some values inthe histogram can be negative because the dark reference average islighter (or less dark) than some pixels in a rectangular box. The y-axisof the histogram indicates a number of pixels at a particular differencevalue of the x-axis.

Step 721.4. The fabric mapping process (e.g., creating histograms for afabric map) can occur automatically using software tools. A useridentifies the fabric map (e.g., using a mouse to draw a box identifyingthe fabric map boundaries) and inputs variables (e.g., number ofrectangles, starting grayscale rectangle value, ending grayscalerectangle value, and increment value). The software tools will generatehistograms (e.g., histogram 1033) for the boxes or rectangles in thefabric map.

For each box in the fabric map, the technique generates a histogram ofthe grayscale value distribution. For a fabric map with 25 boxes (255grayscale levels with an increment value of 10), there will be 25histograms.

Step 721.5. After the histograms for the fabric map are obtained, thesehistograms are used to create a graph 1112 (FIG. 11) of the laser-fabricresponse. The graph contains shows function or curve of the relationshipbetween laser and fabric, which may be referred to as relationshipbetween a gray value difference on fabric versus programmed grayscale.The x-axis gives a needed value shift, while the y-axis gives agrayscale value required.

In a specific implementation, the graph is obtained by using a leastsquares linear regression algorithm to fit a function to thelaser-fabric response. This function is stored for later use.

FIG. 11 shows three curves of relationships between needed value shiftand grayscale value, curves 1123 (indicated as “A”), 1126 (indicated as“B”), and 1129 (indicated as “C”). These curves correspond to the datawithin regions 1043 (indicated as “A”), 1046 (indicated as “B”), and1049 (indicated as “C”) of histogram 1033. These curves may be referredto as laser-fabric curves.

After the histograms are generated, the user can select what pixel datato include in creating a function curve. For example, the user canselect to include all the pixels of histogram or only a particularportion or subset of the pixels. This feature allows adjust the outputcurve to obtain improved results when burning to a particular fabric.

As an example, when using all pixel data (represented by region A 1043)in FIG. 10, the resulting curve is curve A 1123. When using a portion ofthe data (represented by box B 1046) in FIG. 10, the resulting curve iscurve B 1126. When using a portion of the data (represented by box C1049) in FIG. 10, the resulting curve is curve C 1129.

In a specific implementation, the histogram is a count of pixel valuesseparated into 85 bins. Grayscale value from 0-3 go in bin 1, grayscalevalues from 3-6 go in bin 2, and so forth, until grayscale values thatgo from 252-255 that go into bin 85. This is a useful representation ofthe data because this allows a user to select from certain portions ofthat histogram to make a map.

The technique starts by averaging everything (e.g., A box 1043). Thisgives you the average fabric response overall. Then if desired we couldtake the average over the top 50 percent of the values (e.g., B box1046) and so on with, for example, the C box 1049. This would result ina different (higher) value for the mapping function to use when thetechnique fits its curve in the regression function. The user can selectwhich mapping to use based on their needs later in the process. Theseoptions can use this as a tool to find a “correct” or more accuratemapping to replicate the target garment or may be used for makingartistic changes.

Although FIG. 11 shows a graph representation, the laser-fabric responsemay also be represented by an equation, function, a lookup table orother representation (such as representations use in software), ratherthan a graph. Then the technique would find the appropriate grayscalevalue use such representation (e.g., equation, function, a lookup table)for a given needed value shift.

As discussed, typically there are many hundreds or thousands or morefabrics a manufacturer use to produce apparel. For the same garment,fabrics from different mills may be used. The manufacturer will generatea fabric map and a laser-fabric curve for each fabric that they will usefor laser finishing. This will allow consistent or improved results whenlaser finishing a particular wear pattern. For example, laser burningthe same pattern onto fabrics from two different mills will producesimilar burned results because each fabric or material has itslaser-fabric curve.

Returning to FIG. 7, in step 725, to generate a wear pattern input filefor the laser, the technique performs image cropping, cleaning, andextraction for an existing wear pattern that is to be reproduced.

Step 725.1. The user selects a target image of a desired garment (e.g.,a pair of worn jeans with a desirable pattern of whiskers and wear onthe thigh regions) to import. Referring to FIG. 12, a photo 1204 ofjeans with wear pattern on a light colored background is selected as aninput target. For example, a photo of the jeans can have a resolution ofabout 5600 vertical pixels by about 3700 horizontal pixels. Otherresolutions may be used, more or less than in this example.

Step 725.2. The user crops the digital image (e.g., color digital photo)so that it includes only the target garment on a desired, light coloredor white background. The user selects a portion of the photo, indicatedby selection box 1208, to crop, which results in a cropped image 1212.

Step 725.3. The cropped photo is processed with extraction code wherethe sum of red, green, and blue arrays is computed as a method toextract only the target garment (not including the background). FIG. 13shows an example of a processed cropped photo.

Step 725.4. The extracted image is then ready to be used as the workingimage that will be used to create an inverted grayscale laser file. FIG.14 shows an example of an extracted image 1418 of a garment.

An additional processing of texture noise removal can be performed onthe extracted image before use as a working image. This additionaltexture noise removal processing is optional and may be omitted in someimplementations. Texture noise removal can be performed before or afterthe image is converted to into grayscale.

The surface texture of the fabric of a garment can be captured as partof the imaging process. For denim, this surface texture may be due tothe twill pattern. Depending on the degree of the surface texturecaptured in the image, the surface texture can be a significant noisethat interferes with the finish pattern that is captured. The surfacetexture will cause a regular pattern that may be visible in the capturedimage.

Some surface textures will cause more noise than others. As previouslydiscussed, right hand twill is the most common and can be easilyidentified by the diagonal pattern that moves from the bottom left ofthe fabric to the top right. Left hand is woven in the exact oppositedirection as right hand twill, starting from the bottom right and movingup to the top left of the fabric. Broken twill is a combination of righthand twill and left hand twill; broken twill alternates left and rightat every two warp ends to create a peculiar zig-zag pattern.

In an implementation, noise removal is used for right hand twill only.In an implementation, noise removal is used for left hand twill only. Inan implementation, noise removal is used for broken twill only. In animplementation, noise removal is used for right or left hand twill only,not broken twill. In an implementation, noise removal is used for brokentwill, not right or left hand twill. In an implementation, noise removalis used for left or broken twill only, not right hand twill.

Noise removal removes noise caused by the fabric's surface texture(e.g., twill line noise). After noise removal, the working image willinclude only the finish and not the surface texture. A technique fornoise removal to detect the surface texture pattern and to subtract,negate, or cancel this surface texture pattern from the extracted imagewhich has the surface texture noise.

As an example, the pattern can be capture by taking an image of the samematerial as the garment, where the material does not have a finishpattern. The garment or material for capturing the surface texture canbe dyed a uniform color. The image of the surface texture can be used anoise filter, and be subtracted from the extracted image, before use asthe working image.

In an implementation, the surface texture pattern (e.g, right hand, lefthand, or broken twill, or other weave pattern) of material of thegarment is detected. Based on the surface pattern detected, anappropriate noise removal pattern is subtracted from the extracted imageto obtain a working image without surface pattern noise.

Returning to FIG. 7, in step 729, a garment feature map is created.

Step 729.1. The extracted working image (e.g., image 1418 of FIG. 14)created from step 725.4 above is converted to grayscale, where theconversion is performed so that differences in the image are maximized.FIG. 15 shows an grayscale extracted working image 1505.

Step 729.2. A contrast limited adaptive histogram equalization (CLAHE)algorithm is applied to the image in an effort to extract features fromthe garment that will later be enhanced or filtered down. A histogram1513 can be used in the algorithm.

Adaptive histogram equalization is a computer image processing techniqueused to improve contrast in images. It differs from standard or ordinaryhistogram equalization in the respect that the adaptive method computesseveral histograms, each corresponding to a distinct section of theimage, and uses them to redistribute the lightness values of the image.It is therefore suitable for improving the local contrast and enhancingthe definitions of edges in each region of an image. An adaptivehistogram equalization called contrast limited adaptive histogramequalization (CLAHE) prevents overamplifying noise in relativelyhomogeneous regions of an image by limiting the amplification.

Adaptive histogram equalization improves on this by transforming eachpixel with a transformation function derived from a neighborhood region.In its simplest form, each pixel is transformed based on the histogramof a square surrounding the pixel. The derivation of the transformationfunctions from the histograms is exactly the same as for ordinaryhistogram equalization: The transformation function is proportional tothe cumulative distribution function of pixel values in theneighborhood.

Pixels near the image boundary should be treated specially, becausetheir neighborhood would not lie completely within the image. Thisapplies for example to the pixels to the left or above the blue pixel inthe figure. This can be solved by extending the image by mirroring pixellines and columns with respect to the image boundary. Simply copying thepixel lines on the border is not appropriate, as it would lead to ahighly peaked neighborhood histogram.

Contrast limited adaptive histogram equalization differs from ordinaryadaptive histogram equalization in its contrast limiting. The contrastlimiting procedure should be applied for each neighborhood from which atransformation function is derived.

This is achieved by limiting the contrast enhancement of adaptivehistogram equalization. The contrast amplification in the vicinity of agiven pixel value is given by the slope of the transformation function.This is proportional to the slope of the neighborhood cumulativedistribution function and therefore to the value of the histogram atthat pixel value. Contrast limited adaptive histogram equalizationlimits the amplification by clipping the histogram at a predefined valuebefore computing the cumulative distribution function. This limits theslope of the cumulative distribution function and therefore of thetransformation function. The value at which the histogram is clipped,the so-called clip limit, depends on the normalization of the histogramand thereby on the size of the neighborhood region.

Step 729.3. Depending on the range of parameters selected from thehistogram as well as the limits placed on contrast, different featurescan be extracted. Depending on the dimensions of the box used in thecontrast limited adaptive histogram equalization algorithm as well asthe limits placed on contrast, different features can be extracted.

For example, referring to FIG. 15, the user can select or indicate a boxM 1524 or a box N 1527 on the working image. Based on the box Mselection, using the contrast limited adaptive histogram equalizationalgorithm, a feature selection M 1534 is generated. Based on the box Nselection, a feature selection N 1537 is generated. In this particularexample, feature selection N has larger light regions than featureselection M, generally indicating greater or more contrast between lightand dark regions.

Step 729.4. After some user-defined thresholding and filtering, thisfeature map or feature maps (e.g., feature selection maps M and N) aresaved for later use.

Returning to FIG. 7, in step 733, a dark reference difference image isgenerated.

Step 733.1. The histograms (e.g., histogram 1033) and curves (e.g.,graph 1112) of the fabric map for the chosen fabric was calculated as adifference relative to a dark reference (e.g., dark reference 1021). Seediscussion for step 721 above. To be compatible with the fabric responsedata (e.g., histograms for fabric map and graph 1112), the work image(e.g., 1418) is converted to be relative (e.g., a difference) to a localdark reference.

Step 733.2. In the grayscale working image, the user can identify,select, or define (e.g., by a selection tool) a dark reference (e.g., adarkest point on a selected garment). In FIG. 16, on a working image1602, the user has selected a dark reference 1606, indicated by aselection box or rectangle.

A dark reference 1021 (FIG. 10) was discussed above for fabric map; theabove discussion can apply to dark reference 1606 of the grayscaleworking image as well. The dark reference value can be, for example, anaverage, mean, median, or other function of the pixels in the region.This region can be selected by using a selection polygon to indicateboundaries of the dark reference region. The selection polygon can be asquare, rectangle, ellipse, circle, triangle, pentagon, hexagon,octagon, or any other closed polygon shape. The dark reference regioncan be two or more separate polygons, each of which can be the same ordifferent shape. In other implementations, dark reference value may be asingle pixel or point instead of a region.

Step 733.3. A difference image 1624 is calculated and generated. Eachpixel in the difference image is a value difference between acorresponding pixel in work image 1602 relative to dark reference 1606.

After the difference image is calculated, the outlier values (e.g.,leading and trailing one one thousandths or other value of image pixelvalues) in the image are shifted into the last nonoutlier bin. FIG. 17shows a histogram where outliers 1712 and 1715 are shifted. Outliers1712 are shifted into a bin to a right (indicated by an arrow) ofoutliers 1712. Outliers 1715 are shifted into a bin to the left(indicated by an arrow) of outliers 1715. This technique removes noiseand makes for a more accurate difference image.

Note that because the difference image shows a difference between thedarkest point on the fabric and the specific points (or pixels in thedigital file) the image resembles a photographic negative in that thedarkest points are the lightest and the lightest points are thedarkest). The difference image is an inverse or reverse image, comparedto working image 1602.

Step 733.4. The resulting difference image is then shifted to start itsminimum value at zero (e.g., grayscale value 0).

In a specific implementation, the difference image is calculated bysimple subtraction. The user selects the darkest region on the targetgarment. Software evaluates that region and assigns it a “value” (e.g.,mean or median of the selected region). This value may be referred to asa dark reference value.

The program then loops through each pixel in the image subtracting thedark reference value from each pixel. This if done on its own can resultin a poor quality image because of image noise and user variability. Soafter the initial subtraction the algorithm checks the image for outliervalues (e.g., values making up less than one thousandths of the image)and redistributes them into the appropriate place in the image (e.g.,the value closets the original value that is not an outlier). Afterthat, the entire image adjusted so that its darkest pixels are at zero.For example, according one technique, any negative values in the imagefile will not be laser burned onto the garment.

Returning to FIG. 7, in step 737, a fabric mapping to pixel isperformed.

Step 737.1. Referring to FIG. 18, difference image 1624 is converted tolaser values 1866 to control the laser treatment of the fabric. Thelaser values are saved in a file. This file can be used as an input filefor the laser. This file is used to burn the particular wear pattern ona particular fabric material that laser values 1866 were calculated forby the steps in flow 702 of FIG. 7.

In an implementation, the file is an image file type. Some examples ofimage file types or file formats include bitmap or raster graphicsformats including IMG, TIFF, EXIF, JPEG, GIF, PNG, PBM, PGM, PPM, BMP,and RAW. The compression for the file can be lossless (e.g., TIFF) orlossy (e.g., JPEG). Other image file types or file formats includevector graphics including DXF, SVG, and the like.

Bitmaps or raster graphics are resolution dependent while vectorgraphics are resolution independent. Raster graphics generally cannotscale up to an arbitrary resolution without loss of apparent quality.This property contrasts with the capabilities of vector graphics, whichgenerally easily scale up to the quality of the device rendering them.

A raster graphics image is a dot matrix data structure representing agenerally rectangular grid of pixels, or points of color, viewable via amonitor, paper, or other display medium. A bitmap, such as a single-bitraster, corresponds bit-for-bit with an image displayed on a screen oroutput medium. A raster is characterized by the width and height of theimage in pixels and by the number of bits per pixel (or color depth,which determines the number of colors it can represent).

The BMP file format is an example of a bitmap. The BMP file format, alsoknown as bitmap image file or device independent bitmap (DIB) fileformat or simply a bitmap, is a raster graphics image file format usedto store bitmap digital images, independently of the display device. TheBMP file format is capable of storing two-dimensional digital images ofarbitrary width, height, and resolution, both monochrome and color, invarious color depths, and optionally with data compression, alphachannels, and color profiles.

Step 737.2. Features in the target can be enhanced, as desired by theuser, using a feature map 1873. For example, feature selection map M1534 or N 1537 of FIG. 15 and described in step 729 may be used. Thetechnique to adjust the weighting of the different color layersdescribed above (e.g., selecting a weighting for each color) may be usedto create the feature selection maps and variations of these.

In a specific implementation, a technique takes difference image 1624and uses laser-fabric response graph 1112 to generate laser values image1866. For a given pixel value from the difference image, a positioncorresponding to this pixel value is found on the x-axis of laser-fabricresponse graph 1112. This x-axis value corresponds to a position orpoint on a curve (e.g., curve B 1126 of graph 1112 in FIG. 11) of thelaser-fabric response graph. The y-axis value for this position or pointon the curve will be the difference value for the given pixel value andis used in laser values image file 1866. Although a graph representationis described, the laser-fabric response may also be represented by anequation, function, a lookup table, or other representation, instead ofa graph.

The user may use (optionally) the feature selection to modify or alterthe conversion of the pixel values from difference image 1624 tocorresponding pixel values in laser values 1866. First, a technique cannormalize the value to between the maximum brightness change seen on themap and the grayscale value that no longer produces a change on thefabric. Then, after the ranges are capped based on fabric response,feature selection mapping is used to select the locations withsignificant features to a user's liking. The technique allows a user toenhance certain features of the garment (e.g., making them darker sothey will be exposed to more laser energy, which will result in lighterregions on the fabric). Users can use feature selection mapping toenhance artistic and design choices.

In an implementation, when using the feature selection, each pixel inthe difference image is compared to a corresponding pixel in feature map1873. A grayscale threshold is selected that corresponds to feature map1873. When the brightness of the pixel in difference image 1624 is abovethe grayscale value threshold in feature map 1873, then that pixel willbe converted to a laser values 1866 pixel according to a firstweighting. When the grayscale value of the pixel in difference image1624 is at or below the grayscale value threshold in feature map 1873,then that pixel will be converted to a laser values 1866 pixel accordingto a second weighting. The first weighting and second weighting can bedifferent from each other. Using feature map 1873 in the conversion tolaser values 1866 allows selectively further increasing or decreasingthe contrast or brightness is some areas of the laser values file.

The first weighting can be greater than second weighting. For example,the first weighting can be 1 and the second weighting can be 0.8. Thismeans than lighter areas will be enhanced and made even brighter,compared to pixels below the grayscale value threshold. The secondweighting can be greater than the first weighting. For example, thefirst weighting can be 0.9 and the second weighting can be 1.6. Thismeans than darker areas will be enhanced and made brighter, compared topixels below the grayscale value threshold. If the first and secondweightings are the same (e.g., 1), this would effectively nullify theuse of feature map 1873 to differentiate the pixels.

For normalizing values, a technique can include, for example: a fabricmap may have a grayscale range from 0 to 255 (the entire range), whilethe working image or laser values image may have a more limited range,such as from 40 to 180. Then a technique scales the working image intothe fabric map range. The scaling can be linear scaling. For example, apixel value of 180 would become 255, and 40 would be 0. And valuesbetween 40 and 180 would be given by a formula: 180−40=140;255/120=1.821; 40*1.821=72.84; so (working image value)*1.821-72.84=newvalue for difference map or laser values image.

Returning to FIG. 7, in step 741, layer separation is used.

Step 741.1. Layer separation is a technique where a garment is burned bythe laser in multiple passes, such as two or more passes. This generallyenhances the contrast of the resulting laser burn. Multiple passes maybe used for the entire garment or only for one or more portions of agarment.

Depending on the laser hardware being used, multiple passes may behelpful to improve contrast. The input file used to control the laser isseparated into multiple layers instead of burning the entire image orpattern in a single file.

FIGS. 19-20 shows a laser values file (e.g., laser values 1866) that hasbeen divided into two layers, a first layer 1906 and a second layer2029. One layer is input as a first input file to the laser, and burnedfirst, and the other layer is input as a second input file to the laser,and burned second, after the first burn has been finished. Although twolayers are described, there can be more than two layers, such as three,four, five, six, seven, or more. There would be a corresponding numberof burns to the number of layers.

The first layer may be burned before the second layer, or vice versa.Compared to the second layer, the first layer generally has darkerregions, which will cause the laser to burn longer and result in lightregions. The resulting burned wear pattern can differ depending on theorder in which the layers are burned.

Step 741.2. A software tool can convert an image into the desired numberof layers (e.g., 2, 3, 4, 5, or more) with specific intensities on eachlayer. In an implementation, to separate the laser values file (e.g.,laser values 1866), a threshold difference value can be selected. Thethreshold difference value can be user selectable. For values above thisthreshold difference value, those will go into a first layer file. Andvalues at or below this threshold difference value, those will go into asecond layer file.

For example, software provides a user interface where the user can inputor select a percentage of the image be applied to the first or secondlayer. If the user selects, for example, 50 percent, layer one willprint the image with the darkest value being 50 percent of what it wasin the original difference image. The second layer will print only theareas in the original image that were in the top 50 percent of theoriginal image; these would be the highlights.

Step 741.3. Layers can be rotated and cropped using a software tool tohelp isolate certain parts of a design (where it is desirable to use amultiple passes for laser burning). For example, in FIGS. 19-20, only aportion (e.g., left half) of a pair of jeans is shown in images 1906 and2029. The laser will burn these portions. The images for the layerscould be an entire front side of the jeans, back side of the jeans, ordifferent portions of the jeans. The image will reflect the portions ofthe garment that the user wants to burn using this technique.

Step 741 is optional, and a technique may not include a two-pass ormultiple-pass laser burn. Burning a garment using a single passgenerally increases the throughput of garment finishing.

Tables A-G present a pseudocode computer program listing of samplesoftware code for a specific implementation of flow 702 of FIG. 7 forcreating a wear pattern input file for the laser finishing system. Aspecific implementation of the source code may be written in aprogramming language such as Python. Other programming languages can beused.

TABLE A User Program 1: CLICK, CROP, EXTRACT Import (“Target Image”) ->data represented as an array size (image height, image width, 3)Magnitude threshold = set by user -> a threshold value functioncropCleanExtract( ): PRINT: prompt for user to select region of interestCALL: Click and Crop function, passing “Target Image,” returns userdefined   rectangular region of interest x1,x2,y1,y2 CREATE: A “WorkingImage” ARRAY: defined by the x1,x2,y1,y2 within the original   targetImage CALL: Color Pull function, passing “Working Image” returns thegarment with the   background removed and set to reset to white. SAVE:Color Pull output image array as is for future use CALL: Gray itfunction passing Color Pull result, returns a grayscale image byflattening the image array by a set weighted average of the RGBcomponents PLOT: The original Target Image and the cropped and extractedTarget Garment image   so that the user can confirm that extractionhappened correctly ITERATE: reset Magnitude threshold if needed. Repeatuntil desired result is achieved

TABLE B User Program 2: GARMENT FEATURE MAP Pre_filter = value ofaveraging filter window set by user. Noise reduction Contrast Box X =set the X dimension for the contrast enhancement algorithm Contrast BoxY = set the Y dimension for the contrast enhancement algorithm Clipper =set the limiter on the Contrast enhancement algorithm Post_filter =value of averaging filter window set by user. Noise reduction ContrastValue Threshold = threshold vale for what will considered a featuresfunction extractfeatures( ): IMPORT: work image to array IMPORT:reference image CALL: Contrast it function, passing “work image” andabove parameters, returns a new image array of the same size withcontrast between high and low enhanced by a CLAHE algorithm with theabove inputs PLOT: The enhanced contrast image array to show user whichfeatures will be saved based on their settings above ITERATE: resetsettings if needed. Repeat until desired result is achieved PRINT: imagearray maximums and minimums so that user can use that later in theprocess SAVE: feature image array for later use.

TABLE C User Program 3: DARK REFERENCE NoiseReducer = set by user.Portion of image histogram distribution to ignore as outliers functionDarkReference( ): IMPORT: work image to array IMPORT: reference imageCALL: Click and Crop function, passing “Target Image,” returns userdefined   rectangular region of interest x1,x2,y1,y2. This region isselected as the darkest   portion of the target garment. FOR: pixelsthat are not pure white replace the current value with (current value -dark reference CHECK: for outlier values in the image and remove them.By creating a histogram of pixel values, the outlier can be selected andmodified to non-outlier values. IF: discrepancy is found between theuser dark reference and histogram non-outlier dark reference default tohistogram method (this can be overridden) CREATE: a new image array thatis the “difference image.” PLOT: The difference image array to show userthe histogram and illustrate what portions of the values have beenreassigned. ITERATE: reset settings if needed. Repeat until desiredresult is achieved PRINT: difference image array maximums and minimumsso that user can use that later in the process SAVE: feature image arrayfor later use.

TABLE D User Program 4: MAP CONVERSION AND LAYERING map_intercept =intercept from mapping function x_term = power 1 term in mappingpolynomial. x2_term = power 2 term in mapping polynomial. x3_term =power 3 term in mapping polynomial. default 0 x4_term = power 4 term inmapping polynomial. default 0 x5_term = power 5 term in mappingpolynomial. default 0 x6_term = power 6 term in mapping polynomial.default 0 Number of Layers = set to 1 or 2 Layer1 Percentage =percentage of laser image that goes on layer 1 Max Map Change = the maxdifference achievable on fabric map No_value_shift = The grayscale valuethat creates no change on the function convert2laser( ): IMPORT:Difference Image to array NORMALIZE: The difference image to have adifference range between 0 and the max difference from the settingsabove IF: Layers = 1 CALL: InvertConvert function, passing “DifferenceImage,” intercept,x1,x2,x3,x4,x5 and x6, returns the difference imagescaled to inverted grayscale set by the mapping function to replicatethe target garment from the original photograph  SAVE: Converted imagein a single layer for either layering or further    enhancement PLOT:Converted image array to ensure user is satisfied with result ELSEIF:Layers = 2 Cutoff = Layer1 Percentage * max difference value Layer1 = isthe difference image with a cap of cutoff applied to all values Layer2 =is the difference image only where value is > cutoff CALL: InvertConvertfunction, For Layer1 passing “Difference  Image,”intercept,x1,x2,x3,x4,x5 and x6, returns the difference image  scaled toinverted grayscale set by the mapping function to replicate  the targetgarment from the original photograph CALL: InvertConvert function, ForLayer2 passing “Difference  Image,” intercept,x1,x2,x3,x4,x5 and x6,returns the difference image  scaled to inverted grayscale set by themapping function to replicate  the target garment from the originalphotograph SAVE: Converted image in two separate layers for eitherlayering or further  enhancement PLOT: Converted image arrays to ensureuser is satisfied with result

TABLE E User Program 5: Enhancement Interface Threshold for Change =user set value Amount of Change = user set Change Operation = userselected function enhnacement( ): IMPORT: Converted Laser file (layer 1and/or layer 2) IMPORT: Feature Map Image Array within GUI PLOT:Converted Image and Feature Map USER SELECTION: of Threshold for Change,Amount of Change and Change Operation REPLOT: showing image with newuser settings i.e., User can set to retrieve the locations in thefeature map where the values are above or below a certain value(Threshold for Change). The user then assigns the pixels with that samelocation in the Converted image to be modified by Change Operation(divide subract/generally make darker lighter) and sets what amountAmount of Change. ITERATE: until user is satisfied with the output.SAVE: Image arrays for laser finishing.

TABLE F FABRIC MAPPING: This will happen before steps 1 through 5 arecompleted Number of calibrate references = set by decided map Incrementof calibration references = set by decided map IMPORT color image offabric map to image array LOCATE: calibration targets on map throughaddition and thresholding of row in column sums within the array RECORD= values of map references using know position of calibration referenceswith respect to calibration targets taking the average of some part ofthe pixel distribution. Taking different parts of the map referencepixel distributions will result in a different mapping functions. Thesedifferent mapping functions can be used to create different effects toeither enhance or modify the eventual target garment. CALIBRATE: fit apolynomial to result data distribution and record that polynomial foruse as input to x1,x2,x3,x4,x5,x6 while in USER STEP 4

TABLE G FUNCTION COLLECTION FILE: This file contains all functionslisted above. A short description of each is below 1. functionGrayit(image) take in a color image performs a weighted average of the RG and B components and returns a grayscale image. The weights of theaverages are selected to enhance color features in denim photographs butcould be modified to suit any image. 2. function GrayThresh (Gray_image,thresh, set_val) goes through an flat image array and replaces valuesabove or below thresh value to set_val 3. function sumMagit(image) sumsthe R,G,B components of an image array and outputs the result as a flatsum array 4. function filter (image, window): goes through each value inan image array and replace it with the average array value within thewindow size 5. function LayerExtract(diff_image, max_diff) takes in thedifference image and removes unachievable values from the array (valuesabove max_diff 6. functionInvertConvert(gray_image,intercept,x1,x2,x3,x4,x5,x6) applies themapping function to the difference image 7. function softenDarken(gray_image,percentage) allows the user to lighten/darken specificlocations in an image by a given percentage 8. functionboxit(x1,y1,x2,y2) plots a box around the user portion of the imagearrays and displays it to the user as an overlay to the image 9.function crop_it (image, x_start,x_end,y_start,y_end) takes the outputfrom click and crop and makes a new image area using that region 10.function colorPull(image,thresh) uses sumMagit above to pull the garmentoff the background. Does this by calling values in the sum matrix abovethresh value background and everything else garment. 11. functioncontrast_it(gray_image, pre_filter, box_y, box_x, clipper, post_filter)An implementation of the CLAHE algorithm using the listed settings.Different settings pull different features 12. functioncurveFitter(data_pts,order) this takes in data points from the mappingfunction and fits a polynomial to it of specified order. Returns thepolynomial constants and the the error value to aid in the decision asto whether or not to try a higher order polynomial 13. functionClickandCrop(image) this plots the image to a window and records theposition of the user mouse click down and mouse click up in the creationof a rectangular region of interest. Returns the x and y positions ofopposite corners deifying a rectangle

The above discussion has described the use of a camera to performimaging and color analysis. In another implementation, aspectrophotometer is used instead or in combination with a cameraimaging device.

In an implementation, for example, the fabric or material is placed overthe aperture of the spectrophotometer, and an L*a*b* reading isobtained. The L* reading is used and points are measured across thelaser gradient to plot a line. The equation of the line (mx+b) gives thevalues used. This technique will replace the process of using theaverage grey-value of each box from an image described above.

In an implementation, a method includes forming a first pattern on asurface of a target fabric material. The first pattern includes a numberof color shades where the color shades are lighter shades relative to anoriginal color of the target fabric material. The first pattern isformed by exposing the target fabric material to a laser beam at avariety of laser levels. The obtaining a first image representative ofthe preexisting finishing pattern can use contrast limited adaptivehistogram equalization image processing.

The method includes: from the first pattern created by a laser,obtaining a fabric response characteristic for the target fabricmaterial in response to the laser; providing a first garment having apreexisting finishing pattern; and from the first garment having apreexisting finishing pattern, obtaining a first image representative ofthe preexisting finishing pattern.

The method includes: from the first image, obtaining a second imagerepresentative of the preexisting finishing pattern, where the secondimage includes a reverse image, compared to the first image; using thesecond image and the fabric response characteristic, creating a laservalues input file; and forming on a second pattern on a surface of asecond garment, where the second garment is made of the target fabricmaterial. The second pattern is formed by exposing the second garment toa laser beam controlled by the laser values input file.

In various implementations, the second garment can be an assembledgarment having fabric panels of the target fabric material sewn togetherwith thread. The target fabric material can be a denim material. Thetarget fabric material can include woven indigo ring-dyed cotton yarn.The second garment can be denim jeans or “blue jeans.”

The obtaining a second image representative of the preexisting finishingpattern can include: selecting a dark reference in the first image; foreach pixel in the first image, calculating a difference value between apixel value and the dark reference; and storing each difference value inthe second image.

The laser levels can be obtained by varying an output of the laser beamby altering a characteristic of a laser waveform such as a frequency,period, pulse width, power, duty cycle, or burning speed. The secondpattern can be formed by a single pass of the laser or multiple passes.

The first pattern can be different from the second pattern. The firstpattern includes a first region having a first shade, a second having asecond shade, and a third region having a third shade. Each first,second, and third regions have the same polygon shape (e.g., rectangle,square, triangle, trapezoid, circle, or other shape). A differencebetween the first shade and second shade is determined by a firstincremental value in a laser input value. A difference between thesecond shade and third shade is determined by a second incremental valuein the laser input value. The second incremental value is the same asthe first incremental value.

The obtaining a fabric response characteristic for the target fabricmaterial in response to the laser can includes: for the first region,generating a first histogram for a distribution of pixels in the firstregion; for the second region, generating a second histogram for adistribution of pixels in the second region; and for the third region,generating a second histogram for a distribution of pixels in the secondregion.

In an implementation, a system includes an assembled garment made of afabric material, where the assembled garment will be exposed to a laserbeam that will create a finishing pattern on a surface of the assembledgarment.

There is a laser that emits the laser beam, where the laser beam willform a finishing pattern on the surface of the fabric material of theassembled garment based on the laser input file. The laser input file isobtained by providing a fabric response characteristic function for thefabric material in response to the laser, providing a preexistingfinishing pattern captured from a garment having a finishing pattern,and converting the preexisting finishing pattern based on the fabricresponse characteristic function into the laser input file. The laserinput file can be a reverse image.

The assembled garment can include fabric panels that have been sewntogether using thread to form pants legs, a crotch region for the pants,and pocket openings for the pants. Before exposure to the laser, theassembled garment does not have a finishing pattern. The fabric materialcan use a warp yarn having indigo ring-dyed cotton yarn and undyed weftyarn.

The finishing pattern on the surface of the fabric material of theassembled garment can be formed by removing a selected amount ofmaterial from the surface of the fabric material of the assembledgarment based on the laser input file. Laser levels at an output of thelaser beam are altered based on the laser input file by varying acharacteristic of a laser such as a frequency, period, pulse width,power, duty cycle, or burn speed.

In an implementation, a method includes assembling a jeans made fromfabric panels of a woven first denim material including a warp havingindigo ring-dyed cotton yarn, where the fabric panels are sewn togetherusing thread. A laser input file is created that is representative of afinishing pattern from an existing jeans made from a second denimmaterial. The first denim material has a different fabric characteristicfrom the second denim material.

The creating the laser input file can include: capturing a target imageof the finishing pattern from the existing jeans of the second denimmaterial, and determining values for the laser input file that willresult in a finishing pattern on the first denim material to obtain anappearance similar to the target image of the finishing pattern from theexisting jeans of the second denim material.

A laser is used to create a finishing pattern on an outer surface of thejeans based on a laser input file. Based on the laser input file, thelaser removes selected amounts of material from the surface of the firstmaterial at different pixel locations of the jeans. For lighter pixellocations of the finishing pattern, a greater amount of the indigoring-dyed cotton warp yarn is removed, while for darker pixel locationsof the finishing pattern, a lesser amount of the indigo ring-dyed cottonwarp yarn is removed. The finishing pattern created can extend acrossportions of the jeans where two or more fabric panels are joinedtogether by the threads by exposing these portions to the laser.

The first denim material can have a weft yarn that has not been indigodyed. For the portions of the jeans exposed to the laser where thefabric panels are joined, the fabric panels are joined together using athread having cotton.

The determining values for the laser input file can include: selecting adark reference in the target image of the finishing pattern from theexisting jeans of the second denim material; for each pixel in thetarget image, calculating a difference value between a pixel value andthe dark reference; and storing each difference value in the laser inputfile. The laser input file will contain a reverse image compared totarget image. The laser can create a finishing pattern on an outersurface of the jeans in a single pass or multiple passes.

The determining values for the laser input file can include forming afirst pattern on a surface of a first denim material, where the firstpattern includes a number of color shades. The color shades are lightershades relative to an original color of the target fabric material. Andthe first pattern is formed by exposing the target fabric material to alaser beam at a variety of laser levels.

The first pattern includes a first region having a first shade, a secondregion having a second shade, and a third region having a third shade.Each first, second, and third regions can be the same polygon shape. Adifference between the first shade and second shade is determined by afirst incremental value in a laser input value. A difference between thesecond shade and third shade is determined by a second incremental valuein the laser input value. The second incremental value can be the sameas the first incremental value.

The determining values for the laser input file can include obtaining afabric response characteristic for the first denim material in responseto the laser including: for the first region, generating a firsthistogram for a distribution of pixels in the first region; for thesecond region, generating a second histogram for a distribution ofpixels in the second region; and for the third region, generating asecond histogram for a distribution of pixels in the second region.

The capturing a target image of the finishing pattern from the existingjeans of the second denim material can include using contrast limitedadaptive histogram equalization image processing. When using a laser tocreate a finishing pattern, different laser levels are obtained byvarying an output of the laser beam by altering a characteristic of thelaser such as frequency, period, pulse width, power, duty cycle, orburning speed.

The determining values for the laser input file can include: providing afabric response characteristic function for the first denim material inresponse to the laser; and converting the target image of the finishingpattern from the existing jeans of the second denim material based onthe fabric response characteristic function for the first denim materialinto values for the laser input file. The laser input file can be areverse image as compared to target image.

The first denim material can have a first surface texture characteristicthat is different from a second surface texture characteristic of thesecond denim material. The first denim material can have a first dyecharacteristic that is different from a second dye characteristic of thesecond denim material. The first denim material can have a first basefabric color characteristic (e.g., color shade or color tint) that isdifferent from a second base fabric color characteristic of the seconddenim material. The first denim material can have a first yarncharacteristic (e.g., ring dye effect) that is different from a secondyarn characteristic of the second denim material. For example, thethickness of the ring dyed region can be different. The diameter of thecore region can be different.

Further, the first denim material can have a first yarn weightcharacteristic that is different from a second yarn weightcharacteristic of the second denim material. The first denim materialcan have a first yarn diameter characteristic that is different from asecond yarn diameter characteristic of the second denim material. Thefirst denim material can have a first yarn twist characteristic (e.g.,number of twists) that is different from a second yarn twistcharacteristic of the second denim material.

This description of the invention has been presented for the purposes ofillustration and description. It is not intended to be exhaustive or tolimit the invention to the precise form described, and manymodifications and variations are possible in light of the teachingabove. The embodiments were chosen and described in order to bestexplain the principles of the invention and its practical applications.This description will enable others skilled in the art to best utilizeand practice the invention in various embodiments and with variousmodifications as are suited to a particular use. The scope of theinvention is defined by the following claims.

The invention claimed is:
 1. A method comprising: assembling a garmentmade from fabric panels of a woven first material comprising a warpcomprising dyed cotton yarn, wherein the fabric panels are sewn togetherusing thread, and the first material comprises a cotton twill; creatinga laser input file that is representative of a finishing pattern from anexisting garment made from a second material, wherein the first materialcomprises a different fabric characteristic from the second material,and the creating the laser input file comprises capturing a target imageof the finishing pattern from the existing garment of the secondmaterial, and determining values for the laser input file that willresult in a finishing pattern on the first material to obtain anappearance similar to the target image of the finishing pattern from theexisting garment of the second material, wherein the determining valuesfor the laser input file comprises selecting a dark reference in thetarget image of the finishing pattern from the existing garment of thesecond material, for a pixel in the target image, calculating adifference value between a pixel value and the dark reference, andstoring a difference value in the laser input file, wherein the laserinput file comprises a reverse image compared to the target image; andusing a laser to create a finishing pattern on an outer surface of thegarment based on the laser input file.
 2. The method of claim 1 whereinthe warp is ring dyed using an indigo dye, based on the laser inputfile, the laser removes selected amounts of material from the surface ofthe first material at different pixel locations of the garment, and forlighter pixel locations of the finishing pattern, a greater amount ofthe dyed cotton warp yarn is removed, while for darker pixel locationsof the finishing pattern, a lesser amount of the dyed cotton warp yarnis removed.
 3. The method of claim 1 wherein the finishing patterncreated can extend across portions of the garment where two or morefabric panels are joined together by thread by exposing these portionsto the laser.
 4. The method of claim 1 wherein the first materialcomprises a weft comprising yarn that has not been dyed.
 5. The methodof claim 1 wherein for the portions of the garment exposed to the laserwhere the fabric panels are joined, the fabric panels are joinedtogether using a thread comprising cotton.
 6. The method of claim 1wherein the using a laser to create a finishing pattern on an outersurface of the garment comprises a single pass of the laser.
 7. Themethod of claim 1 wherein the using a laser to create a finishingpattern on an outer surface of the garment comprises multiple passes ofthe laser.
 8. The method of claim 1 wherein the capturing a target imageof the finishing pattern from the existing garment of the secondmaterial comprises using contrast limited adaptive histogramequalization image processing.
 9. The method of claim 1 wherein whenusing the laser to create a finishing pattern, different laser levelsare obtained by varying an output of the laser beam by altering acharacteristic of the laser comprising at least one of a frequency,period, pulse width, power, duty cycle, or burning speed.
 10. The methodof claim 1 wherein the first material comprises a first surface texturecharacteristic which is different from a second surface texturecharacteristic of the second material.
 11. The method of claim 1 whereinthe first material comprises a first dye characteristic which isdifferent from a second dye characteristic of the second material. 12.The method of claim 1 wherein the first material comprises a first basefabric color characteristic which is different from a second base fabriccolor characteristic of the second material.
 13. The method of claim 1wherein the first material comprises a first yarn characteristic whichis different from a second yarn characteristic of the second material.14. The method of claim 1 wherein the first material comprises a firstyarn weight characteristic which is different from a second yarn weightcharacteristic of the second material.
 15. The method of claim 1 whereinthe first material comprises a first yarn diameter characteristic whichis different from a second yarn diameter characteristic of the secondmaterial.
 16. The method of claim 1 wherein the first material comprisesa first yarn twist characteristic which is different from a second yarntwist characteristic of the second material.
 17. The method of claim 1wherein the finishing pattern on the existing garment was not created bya laser.
 18. The method of claim 1 wherein the finishing pattern createdby the laser on the garment includes a wear pattern comprising at leastone of combs or honeycombs, whiskers, stacks, or train tracks, or acombination.
 19. The method of claim 1 wherein the first materialcomprises a denim.
 20. The method of claim 1 wherein the second materialcomprises a denim.
 21. The method of claim 1 wherein the first materialcomprises a denim, and the second material comprises a denim.
 22. Themethod of claim 1 wherein the garment comprises a pair of pants.
 23. Themethod of claim 1 wherein the existing garment comprises a pair ofpants.
 24. The method of claim 1 wherein the garment comprises a pair ofjeans.
 25. The method of claim 1 wherein the existing garment comprisesa pair of jeans.
 26. The method of claim 1 wherein the garment comprisesa pair of pants, and the existing garment comprises a pair of pants. 27.The method of claim 1 wherein the garment comprises a pair of jeans, andthe existing garment comprises a pair of jeans.
 28. The method of claim1 wherein the garment comprises a shirt.
 29. The method of claim 1wherein the garment comprises a pair of shorts.
 30. The method of claim1 wherein the garment comprises a jacket.
 31. The method of claim 1wherein the garment comprises a vest.
 32. The method of claim 1 whereinthe garment comprises a skirt.
 33. The method of claim 1 wherein thegarment and the existing garment are of the same type of garment. 34.The method of claim 1 wherein the first material comprises a weftcomprising yarn that has not been indigo dyed.
 35. The method of claim 1wherein the determining values for the laser input file comprises:forming a first pattern on a surface of a blanket of the first material,wherein the first pattern comprises a plurality of color shades, thecolor shades are lighter shades relative to a base color of the firstmaterial, and the first pattern is formed by exposing the blanket of thefirst material to a laser beam at a variety of laser levels, the firstpattern comprises a first region comprising a first shade, a secondregion comprising a second shade, and a third region comprising a thirdshade, and a difference between the first shade and second shade isdetermined by a first difference value in a laser input value, and adifference between the second shade and third shade is determined by asecond difference value in the laser input value.
 36. The method ofclaim 35 wherein the second difference value is the same as the firstdifference value.
 37. The method of claim 35 wherein the determiningvalues for the laser input file comprises obtaining a fabric responsecharacteristic for the first material in response to a laser comprising:for the first region, generating a first histogram for a distribution ofpixels in the first region; for the second region, generating a secondhistogram for a distribution of pixels in the second region; and for thethird region, generating a third histogram for a distribution of pixelsin the third region.
 38. A method comprising: assembling a garment madefrom fabric panels of a woven first material comprising a warpcomprising dyed cotton yarn, wherein the fabric panels are sewn togetherusing thread, and the first material comprises a cotton twill; creatinga laser input file that is representative of a finishing pattern from anexisting garment made from a second material, wherein the secondmaterial comprises a cotton twill, and the first material comprises adifferent fabric characteristic from the second material, and thecreating the laser input file comprises capturing a target image of thefinishing pattern from the existing garment of the second material, anddetermining values for the laser input file that will result in afinishing pattern on the first material to obtain an appearance similarto the target image of the finishing pattern from the existing garmentof the second material, wherein the determining values for the laserinput file comprises selecting a dark reference in the target image ofthe finishing pattern from the existing garment of the second material,for a pixel in the target image, calculating a difference value betweena pixel value and the dark reference, and storing a difference value inthe laser input file, wherein the laser input file comprises a reverseimage compared to the target image; and using a laser to create afinishing pattern on an outer surface of the garment based on the laserinput file.
 39. The method of claim 38 wherein the warp is ring dyedusing an indigo dye, based on the laser input file, the laser removesselected amounts of material from the surface of the first material atdifferent pixel locations of the garment, and for lighter pixellocations of the finishing pattern, a greater amount of the dyed cottonwarp yarn is removed, while for darker pixel locations of the finishingpattern, a lesser amount of the dyed cotton warp yarn is removed. 40.The method of claim 38 wherein the finishing pattern created can extendacross portions of the garment where two or more fabric panels arejoined together by thread by exposing these portions to the laser. 41.The method of claim 38 wherein the first material comprises a weftcomprising yarn that has not been dyed.
 42. The method of claim 38wherein for the portions of the garment exposed to the laser where thefabric panels are joined, the fabric panels are joined together using athread comprising cotton.
 43. The method of claim 38 wherein the using alaser to create a finishing pattern on an outer surface of the garmentcomprises a single pass of the laser.
 44. The method of claim 38 whereinthe using a laser to create a finishing pattern on an outer surface ofthe garment comprises multiple passes of the laser.
 45. The method ofclaim 38 wherein the capturing a target image of the finishing patternfrom the existing garment of the second material comprises usingcontrast limited adaptive histogram equalization image processing. 46.The method of claim 38 wherein when using the laser to create afinishing pattern, different laser levels are obtained by varying anoutput of the laser beam by altering a characteristic of the lasercomprising at least one of a frequency, period, pulse width, power, dutycycle, or burning speed.
 47. The method of claim 38 wherein the firstmaterial comprises a first surface texture characteristic which isdifferent from a second surface texture characteristic of the secondmaterial.
 48. The method of claim 38 wherein the first materialcomprises a first dye characteristic which is different from a seconddye characteristic of the second material.
 49. The method of claim 38wherein the first material comprises a first base fabric colorcharacteristic which is different from a second base fabric colorcharacteristic of the second material.
 50. The method of claim 38wherein the first material comprises a first yarn characteristic whichis different from a second yarn characteristic of the second material.51. The method of claim 38 wherein the first material comprises a firstyarn weight characteristic which is different from a second yarn weightcharacteristic of the second material.
 52. The method of claim 38wherein the first material comprises a first yarn diametercharacteristic which is different from a second yarn diametercharacteristic of the second material.
 53. The method of claim 38wherein the first material comprises a first yarn twist characteristicwhich is different from a second yarn twist characteristic of the secondmaterial.
 54. The method of claim 38 wherein the finishing pattern onthe existing garment was not created by a laser.
 55. The method of claim38 wherein the finishing pattern created by the laser on the garmentincludes a wear pattern comprising at least one of combs or honeycombs,whiskers, stacks, or train tracks, or a combination.
 56. The method ofclaim 38 wherein the first material comprises a denim.
 57. The method ofclaim 38 wherein the second material comprises a denim.
 58. The methodof claim 38 wherein the first material comprises a denim, and the secondmaterial comprises a denim.
 59. The method of claim 38 wherein thegarment comprises a pair of pants.
 60. The method of claim 38 whereinthe existing garment comprises a pair of pants.
 61. The method of claim38 wherein the garment comprises a pair of jeans.
 62. The method ofclaim 38 wherein the existing garment comprises a pair of jeans.
 63. Themethod of claim 38 wherein the garment comprises a pair of pants, andthe existing garment comprises a pair of pants.
 64. The method of claim38 wherein the garment comprises a pair of jeans, and the existinggarment comprises a pair of jeans.
 65. The method of claim 38 whereinthe garment comprises a shirt.
 66. The method of claim 38 wherein thegarment comprises a pair of shorts.
 67. The method of claim 38 whereinthe garment comprises a jacket.
 68. The method of claim 38 wherein thegarment comprises a vest.
 69. The method of claim 38 wherein the garmentcomprises a skirt.
 70. The method of claim 38 wherein the garment andthe existing garment are of the same type of garment.
 71. The method ofclaim 38 wherein the first material comprises a weft comprising yarnthat has not been indigo dyed.
 72. The method of claim 38 wherein thedetermining values for the laser input file comprises: forming a firstpattern on a surface of a blanket of the first material, wherein thefirst pattern comprises a plurality of color shades, the color shadesare lighter shades relative to a base color of the first material, andthe first pattern is formed by exposing the blanket of the firstmaterial to a laser beam at a variety of laser levels, the first patterncomprises a first region comprising a first shade, a second regioncomprising a second shade, and a third region comprising a third shade,and a difference between the first shade and second shade is determinedby a first difference value in a laser input value, and a differencebetween the second shade and third shade is determined by a seconddifference value in the laser input value.
 73. The method of claim 72wherein the second difference value is the same as the first differencevalue.
 74. The method of claim 72 wherein the determining values for thelaser input file comprises obtaining a fabric response characteristicfor the first material in response to a laser comprising: for the firstregion, generating a first histogram for a distribution of pixels in thefirst region; for the second region, generating a second histogram for adistribution of pixels in the second region; and for the third region,generating a third histogram for a distribution of pixels in the thirdregion.
 75. A method comprising: assembling a garment made from fabricpanels of a woven first material comprising a warp comprising dyedcotton yarn, wherein the fabric panels are sewn together using thread;creating a laser input file that is representative of a finishingpattern from an existing garment made from a second material, whereinthe second material comprises a cotton twill, and the first materialcomprises a different fabric characteristic from the second material,and the creating the laser input file comprises capturing a target imageof the finishing pattern from the existing garment of the secondmaterial, and determining values for the laser input file that willresult in a finishing pattern on the first material to obtain anappearance similar to the target image of the finishing pattern from theexisting garment of the second material, wherein the determining valuesfor the laser input file comprises selecting a dark reference in thetarget image of the finishing pattern from the existing garment of thesecond material, for a pixel in the target image, calculating adifference value between a pixel value and the dark reference, andstoring a difference value in the laser input file, wherein the laserinput file comprises a reverse image compared to the target image; andusing a laser to create a finishing pattern on an outer surface of thegarment based on the laser input file.
 76. The method of claim 75wherein the warp is ring dyed using an indigo dye, based on the laserinput file, the laser removes selected amounts of material from thesurface of the first material at different pixel locations of thegarment, and for lighter pixel locations of the finishing pattern, agreater amount of the dyed cotton warp yarn is removed, while for darkerpixel locations of the finishing pattern, a lesser amount of the dyedcotton warp yarn is removed.
 77. The method of claim 75 wherein thefinishing pattern created can extend across portions of the garmentwhere two or more fabric panels are joined together by thread byexposing these portions to the laser.
 78. The method of claim 75 whereinthe first material comprises a weft comprising yarn that has not beendyed.
 79. The method of claim 75 wherein for the portions of the garmentexposed to the laser where the fabric panels are joined, the fabricpanels are joined together using a thread comprising cotton.
 80. Themethod of claim 75 wherein the using a laser to create a finishingpattern on an outer surface of the garment comprises a single pass ofthe laser.
 81. The method of claim 75 wherein the using a laser tocreate a finishing pattern on an outer surface of the garment comprisesmultiple passes of the laser.
 82. The method of claim 75 wherein thecapturing a target image of the finishing pattern from the existinggarment of the second material comprises using contrast limited adaptivehistogram equalization image processing.
 83. The method of claim 75wherein when using the laser to create a finishing pattern, differentlaser levels are obtained by varying an output of the laser beam byaltering a characteristic of the laser comprising at least one of afrequency, period, pulse width, power, duty cycle, or burning speed. 84.The method of claim 75 wherein the first material comprises a firstsurface texture characteristic which is different from a second surfacetexture characteristic of the second material.
 85. The method of claim75 wherein the first material comprises a first dye characteristic whichis different from a second dye characteristic of the second material.86. The method of claim 75 wherein the first material comprises a firstbase fabric color characteristic which is different from a second basefabric color characteristic of the second material.
 87. The method ofclaim 75 wherein the first material comprises a first yarncharacteristic which is different from a second yarn characteristic ofthe second material.
 88. The method of claim 75 wherein the firstmaterial comprises a first yarn weight characteristic which is differentfrom a second yarn weight characteristic of the second material.
 89. Themethod of claim 75 wherein the first material comprises a first yarndiameter characteristic which is different from a second yarn diametercharacteristic of the second material.
 90. The method of claim 75wherein the first material comprises a first yarn twist characteristicwhich is different from a second yarn twist characteristic of the secondmaterial.
 91. The method of claim 75 wherein the finishing pattern onthe existing garment was not created by a laser.
 92. The method of claim75 wherein the finishing pattern created by the laser on the garmentincludes a wear pattern comprising at least one of combs or honeycombs,whiskers, stacks, or train tracks, or a combination.
 93. The method ofclaim 75 wherein the first material comprises a denim.
 94. The method ofclaim 75 wherein the second material comprises a denim.
 95. The methodof claim 75 wherein the first material comprises a denim, and the secondmaterial comprises a denim.
 96. The method of claim 75 wherein thegarment comprises a pair of pants.
 97. The method of claim 75 whereinthe existing garment comprises a pair of pants.
 98. The method of claim75 wherein the garment comprises a pair of jeans.
 99. The method ofclaim 75 wherein the existing garment comprises a pair of jeans. 100.The method of claim 75 wherein the garment comprises a pair of pants,and the existing garment comprises a pair of pants.
 101. The method ofclaim 75 wherein the garment comprises a pair of jeans, and the existinggarment comprises a pair of jeans.
 102. The method of claim 75 whereinthe garment comprises a shirt.
 103. The method of claim 75 wherein thegarment comprises a pair of shorts.
 104. The method of claim 75 whereinthe garment comprises a jacket.
 105. The method of claim 75 wherein thegarment comprises a vest.
 106. The method of claim 75 wherein thegarment comprises a skirt.
 107. The method of claim 75 wherein thegarment and the existing garment are of the same type of garment. 108.The method of claim 75 wherein the first material comprises a weftcomprising yarn that has not been indigo dyed.
 109. The method of claim75 wherein the determining values for the laser input file comprises:forming a first pattern on a surface of a blanket of the first material,wherein the first pattern comprises a plurality of color shades, thecolor shades are lighter shades relative to a base color of the firstmaterial, and the first pattern is formed by exposing the blanket of thefirst material to a laser beam at a variety of laser levels, the firstpattern comprises a first region comprising a first shade, a secondregion comprising a second shade, and a third region comprising a thirdshade, and a difference between the first shade and second shade isdetermined by a first difference value in a laser input value, and adifference between the second shade and third shade is determined by asecond difference value in the laser input value.
 110. The method ofclaim 109 wherein the second difference value is the same as the firstdifference value.
 111. The method of claim 109 wherein the determiningvalues for the laser input file comprises obtaining a fabric responsecharacteristic for the first material in response to a laser comprising:for the first region, generating a first histogram for a distribution ofpixels in the first region; for the second region, generating a secondhistogram for a distribution of pixels in the second region; and for thethird region, generating a third histogram for a distribution of pixelsin the third region.